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The New Formal: Glamour Takes It Easy
Fashion loves to get dressed up, so it’s no surprise that formal wear and suiting featured prominently on the runways in 2024. However, when it came to styling, trends revealed a penchant for dressing down.
If the last few seasons are anything to go by, it looks like there is a more balanced approach that bridges the gap between casual and formal dressing. But don't be fooled- when we choose to dress up, we go all out.
This trend has been evident in designers' formal styles, ranging from more streetwear-inspired and relaxed fits to ultra-glamorous ensembles. Let's take a closer look at what formal wear looks like in 2024.
Same Materials, New Cuts
Many designers opted for traditional suiting fabrics like twill and wool tweed, but they innovated with shapes to create unconventional silhouettes. The fabric choices emanated formality while youthful cuts and styles diluted the severity of the looks.
Dior Homme, for example, shifted formal tailoring towards short shorts, jumpsuits, and slashed sleeveless tanks, while Sacai introduced its SS24 suiting featuring inside-out blazers with wide, flowy shorts and streetwear-inspired shirt and trousers.
Kenzo opted for wide-fit pleated trousers and drew from its Japanese heritage to offer kimono style suiting alongside blazers in its SS24 collection.
Next time you attend a formal event with a bit of dress-code flexibility, consider diverging from the classic suit with something unexpected, even if it's just in the details.
Dressed Up Casual
Gone are the days of the strict 'suit and tie to the office' culture. Offices today are youthful and trendy—traditional desk jobs are being influenced by the radical yoga ball and mushroom coffee culture.
Even if you still opt for a suit, it's increasingly acceptable to wear one without a tie. Leaving a few buttons undone isn’t seen as disheveled; it's considered cool, calm, and collected.
In essence, there’s no longer a necessity to wear a full suit and tie every day when you can integrate formal elements into a more casual look.
For instance, Paul Smith combined suit trousers with jean jackets and vice versa for AW24, while Wales Bonner showcased the perfect Christmas party outfit by pairing a wintery knit jumper with suit trousers.
Junya Watanabe presented rugged, deconstructed looks that seamlessly blended smart-casual styles. Smart loafers and blazers balanced out relaxed, distressed jeans.
If you're a newcomer to the trend, start by swapping the usual crisp white shirt for a relaxed polo shirt and blazer, or go smart on top, jeans on the bottom.
Bigger, Baggier Fits
The streetwear influence remains robust in high fashion, evident in the prevalence of baggy and oversized fits.
Not everyone gets it—my mum still comments that by oversized blazer is too big for me every time I wear it—but within fashion circles, it's a big hit and a nostalgic nod to the 90s.
Pulling off this style requires confidence; otherwise, you might risk looking like a kid in hand-me-downs. However, it can exude an effortlessly cool vibe.
Jonathan Anderson is known for playing with proportions, as seen in Loewe’s AW24 collection featuring a super oversized double-breasted blazer two-piece.
Fen Chen Wang injected casual elements through oversized denim suiting, while keeping the classic tie.
Soft Tailoring
Out go the boxy blazers and stiff shoulders—the power suit can take a break. It's all about soft silhouettes and lightweight materials now!
Designers achieve this by removing padding and linings from blazers, opting for lighter fabrics, and creating pieces that delicately drape on the body.
Giorgio Armani, for example, maintained his timeless elegance with oriental-inspired takes on suiting—renowned for rounded angles and graceful draping—and spacious trousers.
Especially in summer, focus on light fabrics such as linen or cotton. I will never understand how men survive in full suits during the summer!
Hermes interpreted soft tailoring with romantic looks, including a striking semi-sheer sleeveless roll neck, perfectly balancing sensually form-fitting and breezy elegance.
Work From Home Ready
Working from home often means taking a Zoom call in a baggy t-shirt or, if you want to try, in a smart shirt on top and your boxers underneath. But perhaps it doesn’t have to come to that.
With modern suiting and tailoring, you can wear something that blurs the line between casual and formal, allowing you to be comfortable without the risk of embarrassment if you have to stand up.
Loewe presented this concept quite literally, showcasing a formal shirt with sweatpants underneath, while JW Anderson offered a vision of cozy bliss in luxuriously soft materials materialized into elegant silhouettes.
Colour, Pattern, Texture
Unless you’re at school or work, why wear a uniform and blend in with everyone else? Laid back wasn't everyone's vibe for AW24. Some designers transformed suits from standard to fabulous with eye-catching designs, urging people to stand out and showcase their individuality.
That means colors, patterns, and textures are your playground. Balmain embellished suiting with gems and lout prints, while Gucci exuded sleek sensuality with shiny leather two-pieces, faux fur, and beaded coats.
As formal wear continues to evolve, 2024 has shown us that there are no rules. Modern formal wear is all about doing you, whether that means choosing minimalism or going all out. Embrace the new formal, and suit up!
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