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The Women Shaping Menswear as We Know It
With International Women’s Day still on our mind, celebration is in the air. But part of celebrating means recognising the gaps that still need to be bridged.
Lately, it seems as though the strides made up till now are regressing, and it’s spilling over into fashion.
Men are dominating fashion spaces, and more than in the usual way we expect. Until 2018, there was an encouraging presence of female creative directors in luxury fashion. However, this number has seen a significant decline.
Since Sarah Burton left Alexander Mcqueen, Kering's legacy brands, for instance, lack female leadership entirely, and only three out of fourteen in LVMH's Fashion & Leather Goods division are women. On the emerging designers front, the LVMH prize this year features double the number of male candidates compared to women.
Patriarchal business structures continue to hinder women reaching and staying in top positions.
Even rarer are the women heading up menswear creative direction. Yet, if men can design for women, why not the reverse?
Fashion has long been shaped by the male gaze, whether heterosexual or otherwise. But what happens when a woman's perspective takes centre stage in traditional male clothing?
In the spirit of celebrating women, let's shine a spotlight on those making a mark in menswear.
Silvia Venturini Fendi
Silvia might have inherited her role, but the 62-year-old head of Fendi’s accessories, menswear and childrenswear has significantly contributed to the brand's legacy.
Working her way up to the top from customer service, to designing for Fendissime, and then heading accessories under Karl Lagerfeld in 1992, she is the designer behind the iconic Baguette bag. There is also a men’s version now, by the way.
Her menswear is all about preserving the craftsmanship and sophisticated style codes of her family’s house.
Passionate about artisanship, her project "Hand in Hand" involved artisans from 20 Italian regions, reimagining the iconic Baguette bag using centuries-old techniques. She hopes to encourage young people to learn traditional crafts and making techniques, many of which are at risk of becoming lost arts.
Besides her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi, 36, who heads up jewellery, she’s the only Fendi left in the house.
Véronique Nichanian
With 35 years as the artistic director of Hermès' men's line, Véronique Nichanian consistently pursues the classics of tomorrow.
Her Hermes is a delicate balance between severity of Parisian luxury and the vivacity of so-called 'joie de vivre.'
Having studied womenswear at L’École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, she began her menswear career at Nino Cerruti.
She acquired a profound passion for textile experimentation, which she carried over into Hermes in 1988.
She loves to play with materials, however, it’s no arts and crafts project- longevity and clever details are paramount in her designs.
Emily Adams Bode Aujla
Graduating from Parsons in 2013, Emily Adams Bode Aujla made history as the first female designer to showcase at NYFW: Men's.
Her brand BODE, founded in 2016, has earned prestigious awards, including CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year and the Woolmark Prize.
Known for integrating antique textiles into her collections, BODE's designs resonates with both male and female audiences.
Perhaps because every piece feels like it is imbued with history, and her vintage sensibility reminds people of nostalgic days past.
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner is on a mission to introduce a new perspective of luxury, deeply rooted in the cultural exploration of her English and Jamaican heritage.
Launched post-graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2014, her label, Wales Bonner, challenges one-dimensional portrayals of black men, providing a diverse outlook on black identity.
Her work has attracted recognition, earning her the LVMH Young Designer Prize and leading to collaborations with Adidas Originals, Anderson & Sheppard, and Dior.
Originally a menswear brand, Wales Bonner's expansion into womenswear was fuelled by growing interest from women.
Martine Rose
Martine Rose's eponymous label, established in 2007, has garnered a cult following in menswear, largely thanks to her beloved football shirt recreations and her part in originating the gorpcore trend.
The London-based designer, a graduate of Middlesex University (not all designers come from CSM after all!), expanded her brand from a focused shirting collection to international acclaim.
Inspired by her Jamaican-British heritage and London upbringing, Rose's collections reflect an authentic blend of high and low influences.
Community values permeate her brand, evident in unconventional show venues like Tottenham's covered markets and Camden's cul-de-sacs.
Her unique aesthetic explores silhouette, subcultural contexts, and her own attraction towards the male form, challenging conventional menswear codes.
Notably, Rose won the GQ Germany Award for Best Menswear Designer in 2022 and received multiple nominations for prestigious awards.
Bianca Saunders
Bianca Saunders, a designer based in London, explores a spectrum of identities in her creations, questioning conventional notions of masculinity through her designs while referencing her West Indian heritage.
At the Royal College of Art, Saunders challenged hyper masculine stereotypes with her MA collection, introducing a unique aesthetic that seamlessly merges tradition and modernity while embracing elements of both masculinity and femininity.
Acknowledged with the BFA New Establishment Menswear award in 2023, Saunders distinguishes herself through innovative silhouettes, bespoke prints, and her exploration of the male form.
In a fashion landscape where menswear often receive less attention and remains entrenched in tradition, these women's contributions are vital. They offer diverse narratives, breathing new life into menswear.
It’s uplifting to see strong women and people of colour carving out their space in the world of menswear. We just need more of it!
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