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Piccioli's 'New Masculine' at Valentino
Amidst the whirlwind of changes sweeping through the fashion world this week, notable exits have left their mark. Walter Chiapponi bid farewell to Blumarine, while Dries Van Noten parted ways from his eponymous label, each departure carrying its own significance.
In this mix, Pierpaolo Piccioli's departure from Valentino seems to echo the natural progression seen with Van Noten—a graceful conclusion to a remarkable chapter.
Last week, Pierpaolo Piccioli bid adieu to Valentino with a heartfelt post on Instagram, eliciting a flurry of warm messages from well-wishers.
Even Valentino himself joined in, writing ‘Thank you, @pppiccioli, first and foremost for your friendship, respect, and support.
You're the only designer I know who hasn't tried to distort the codes of a major brand by imposing new ones and the megalomania of a ridiculous ego.
Valentino said when he retired: "I want to leave the party while it's still full of people." And the same happens for you PP, the party is full of people, and everyone applauds you.’
It's evident that Piccioli's departure is an amicable one marked by mutual respect and gratitude.
From his early days as an accessories designer to his later role as co-creative director alongside Maria GraziaChiuri, and finally taking the helm solo in 2016, Piccioli's journey with Valentino has been one of alignment and evolution.
His distinct vision and leadership have been instrumental in preserving the brand's allure, or keeping the party full of people, as Valentino aptly puts it.
In an industry fixated on modernization, heritage brands often face challenges. Yet for Piccioli, the path was clear—he sought to elevate and redefine Valentino's iconic symbols, emphasizing Italian craftsmanship, human excellence, and elegance. By eschewing fleeting trends for enduring beauty, Piccioli cemented Valentino's success during his tenure.
Mr. Valentino himself was partial to designing for women. His legacy continues through Piccioli with statuesque silhouettes, elegant bows and ruffles.
Piccioli’s aim has always been to uplift and empower women, whether by dressing them in exquisite couture or acknowledging those behind the scenes, like the seamstresses that walked out with him after the FW 2022/23 show.
However, Valentino menswear has existed since 1985. Most of the buzz around Piccioli highlights how he dressed women, but men can wear ruffles too, you know.
His feminist spirit has crossed over into Valentino’s menswear, carving out a modern masculine ideal, one where a man can embrace his sensitive and gentle side.
Each season, Piccioli's collections have defied convention. For Autumn 2024 he reimagined the suit, the ultimate emblem of patriarchal norms, applying couture tactics to create rounder, sinuous shapes.
Entitled ‘Le Ciel Bleu’, the typical ‘it’s a boy!’ colour was featured throughout the collection, with the intent of freeing it from stereotypical associations. We won’t be forgetting the sky-blue duffel coat anytime soon.
Piccioli dealt in symbols, giving them new meanings, and making them instantly attributable to the Valentino brand.
Take colour, for instance. Beyond blue, pink exudes powerful feminine energy yet transcends gender boundaries. Then there's red, a hue Piccioli sees as representing love, vitality, and the essence of life. For Piccioli, colour should never overpower the wearer, rather emphasise their personal strength.
Under his stewardship, Valentino blossomed into a haven for floral motifs.
At the SS24 show in Milan's Università degli Studi di Milano, students were treated to a spectacle of sharply tailored menswear softened by delicate flower embellishments.
Poppies proudly adorned shirts, blazers, and coats, while tall, embroidered roses climbed shirt plackets, infusing the collection with a sense of romance.
Valentino flowers took to the stage for Italian singer Marco Mengoni’s Sanremo 2024 performance, making it all the more memorable. Clad in a shirt adorned with three-dimensional handmade hibiscus flowers, Mengoni exuded emotion in his striking red ensemble.
Later he wore what appeared to be denim trousers. What were they really? A feat of craftsmanship in shape of 500,000 glass pearls arranged on trousers, mimicking the texture of real stonewashed denim. Just think, it took 11 artisans 1050 hours to complete!
Piccioli revitalized Valentino's iconic spikes, breathing new life into the signature style with formal loafers and rockstud ballerinas. Collaborating with James B Whiteside, principal dancer, and choreographer at the American Ballet Theatre in NYC, Valentino's ballerinas pushed the boundaries of footwear and more.
Valentino campaigns under Piccioli's direction embraced diversity and inclusivity, as exemplified by talents like SUGA of BTS, Troye Sivan, and Penn Badgley. What a way celebrate the spectrum of masculinity!
They say all good things must come to an end. Certainly Piccioli's Valentino will be impossible to replicate, but if the rumours are correct, Alessandro Michele will be the next creative director. If he can temper that extravagance to fit the Valentino essence, then we can expect great things.
Whoever it is, they will have big shoes to fill.
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