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Paris Fashion Week: The Highlights
(Photo Credit: Rick Owens)
Paris Fashion Week is a highlight for fashion enthusiasts every year, and this season offered a plethora of memorable shows and over-the-top flair. Here are some of the standout moments.
Louis Vuitton: "Le Monde est à Vous"
First on the line-up, Louis Vuitton inaugurated Paris Fashion Week on the 18th of June with an impressive show held in the gardens of La Maison de l'UNESCO.
The setup featured rows of chequered grass mimicking Vuitton’s iconic Damier print, intersecting in front of a globe frame. World flags lined the pathways, creating an atmosphere of a global gathering. Just weeks before the Olympics, needless to say, the diplomatic theme and location were no coincidence.
The show, titled "Le Monde est à Vous" (The World is Yours), was preceded by a teaser video in collaboration with Air Afrique. Once an airline, Air Afrique is now an artistic collective dedicated to celebrating pan-African unity and culture.
The cinematic video depicted a meeting of young generations and Simon Njami, who quoted Aimé Césaire: "Universalism is the sum of all particularisms." This collaboration emphasized not only the collection's travel theme but also a deeper message encouraging international cooperation.
The collection catered to the cosmopolitan customer, clearly referencing the brand’s travel history with trunks and travel gear. World maps adorned bomber jackets, globe keychains hung from bags, and aviator styles blended with formal silhouettes.
Notable pieces included luggage stacked on wheelbarrows and t-shirts emblazoned with "LV-lovers, united since 1854." However, amid the message of peace and unity, the luxurious display also highlighted the stark contrast between such opulence and the realities of global inequality.
A$AP Rocky's "American Sabotage"
On June 21st, A$AP Rocky debuted his brand American Sabotage under his creative agency AWGE at Karl Lagerfeld’s former residence.
Despite the plush venue, the show's theme diverged from glamour, instead offering a political critique of America's economic and social inequalities.
Accompanied by Rocky’s upcoming album "Don’t Be Dumb”, the collection featured hip-hop styles reminiscent of A$AP Rocky himself: baggy trousers, tied flannel shirts, and layers of exposed boxers.
The message was direct, conveyed through T-shirts bearing "1865" (marking the end of slavery) and models carrying garbage bags filled with money or trash. Homelessness, mass incarceration and capitalism were amongst the issues highlighted.
T-shirts printed with bulletproof vests and N.Y.P.D. (“Now You’re Public Domain”), addressed concerns of violence and privacy quite literally, while a shirt twisted into a gas mask more creatively conveyed the collection's message.
Despite his current wealth, A$AP Rocky drew from his own hardships growing up. The collection is undeniably provocative and offers a pertinent critique of American society. However… is a high-end fashion show attended by the elite is the most effective way to confront these issues? You decide.
Dries Van Noten's Farewell Party
The end of an era arrived as Dries Van Noten, one of the legendary Antwerp Six, presented his final collection for his eponymous label. Held in a former factory where he had previously showcased his 50th collection, the show was a nostalgic tribute to his career.
The runway, adorned in silver leaf, paid homage to the gold leaf runway from his 2006 Autumn show. Models of all ages graced the catwalk, including those who had walked for him in the 90s, symbolizing the passage of time and the memories accumulated along his journey.
The collection itself was a blend of past reflections and future visions, marrying classic styles with innovative elements. Tuxedo jackets and the ancient Japanese printing technique suminagashi shared the stage with futuristic, cellophane-like fabrics and experimental materials such as brushed wool fused with neoprene.
Starting with subdued hues, the collection gradually intensified in vibrancy. Rather than the typical melancholy associated with farewells, the atmosphere grew increasingly joyful, culminating in the unveiling of a disco ball to underscore that this was indeed a celebration.
KidSuper: "It’s All Up In The Air"
Talk about dinner and a show, KidSuper's event, titled "It’s All Up In The Air," was a literal trip to the circus! Colm Dillane, renowned for his streetwear, ventured beyond convention to present a collection brimming with drama and narrative. Models transformed into circus characters, some towering on stilts and others strung like human marionettes.
The spectacle was heightened by Cirque Du Soleil acrobats and special co-branded products. The clothing itself embraced the theme with ruffles, patchwork, collages, and painted designs, seamlessly blending fashion with the artistry of performance.
Rick Owens' "White Satin Army"
Rick Owens’ show on the esplanade of the Palais de Tokyo resembled more of a surreal religious procession than a traditional fashion show, yet it was undeniably a grand spectacle. In contrast to his more exclusive past seasons, Owens extended invitations to a diverse audience, including fashion students and a varied cast of models.
The runway showcased 200 models in 10 distinct looks, each repeated 20 times, creating what he dubbed a ‘white satin army’ marching in disciplined formation. Amidst the ethereal garments, a pyramid of contortionists ascended, carried by strongmen, topped by a white flag depicting clasped forearms.
This extravagant display served as Owens’ homage to his favorite epic films from Hollywood’s Golden Age, such as Busby Berkeley’s Kaleidoscope Dance and Cecil B. DeMille’s Cleopatra. The collection itself featured chiffon cowls, gold-crusted hooded jackets, silver capes, and deflated versions of last season’s balloon shoes, presenting a delicate yet unmistakably Rick Owens aesthetic.
Paris Fashion Week once again served as a platform for designers to transcend mere fashion to create full experiences. This year diverse perspectives communicated a collective yearning for unity in the face of adversity.
Many designers have blurred the boundaries between streetwear, high fashion, and other genres, creating garments that defy categorization. While their clothes may fit neatly into boxes, these designers refused to be confined by them.
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