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Brand Focus: Moschino
In the world of high fashion, things tend to be taken very seriously, but when Moschino emerged it was somewhat of a black sheep. The Italian luxury fashion brand has stood out for being deliberately silly and playful, its designs rife with irony, humour, and pop culture references.
History
The brand was founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino, an aspiring painter turned fashion designer with a desire to shake up the industry.
Franco had the impression that the fashion world was arrogant and oversensitive. Wanting to lighten things up a bit, his first collection was positioned as anti-fashion, playfully mocking the industry.
The response was overwhelming, and anyone who voiced their disapproval only proved his point and garnered more free press for the brand.
Over time, Moschino expanded its offerings, introducing the menswear line in 1986 and diffusion lines such as Moschino Cheap and Chic (rebranded under Scott to Boutique Moschino) and Love Moschino shortly after.
Franco faced criticism as the brand became lucrative, accused of profiting from the same system he mocked. However, he did address important social issues in his collections and often donated proceeds to charity.
His legacy includes tackling racial inequality, supporting the anti-fur movement with his iconic AW89 teddy bear ensemble, and introducing an ‘E-couture’ line, made with eco-friendly materials and dyes.
Franco Moschino also used his platform to raise awareness for AIDS during his Spring 1994 show. This cause was deeply personal to him. Tragically, Franco passed away later that same year at the age of 44 due to complications related to AIDS.
Following his untimely death, his longtime friend Rossella Jardini took over, initially pursuing a more minimalistic approach.
Around 2010, she started reintroducing camp into Moschino's aesthetic. This culminated in her SS14 collection, a tribute to Franco and a smash hit which revived his joyful spirit and most iconic pieces. It was the 30th anniversary show, and also her last collection for the brand.
In 2013, Jeremy Scott took the helm, exceeded expectations with his bold, theatrical collections. His debut AW14 McDonald themed show was the most talked about of that season.
Under Scott’s reigns, the brand pursued a bold and ironic take on fashion, launching perfumes in the shape of cleaning supplies and even more teddy bear paraphernalia. His over-the-top collections were defined by pop culture references like Barbie, McDonalds, and My Little Pony.
He was a great fit for the brand and easily recognisable themes made each collection instantly memorable, but he did eventually struggle to outdo his biggest hit shows.
Scott's departure in 2023 marked a new chapter, with the appointment of a new creative director yet to make their debut.
What is Moschino Known for?
Moschino's signature style is defined by its irreverent and extravagant designs, infused with humour, satire, and irony, boldly challenging traditional fashion norms.
It has a distinctive design language, including prints with polka dots and fruits, symbols such as hearts, peace signs and the "Moschino Teddy Bear", as well as golden jewellery and quilted leather bags. It deliberately toes the line between bold and kitsch, but this sets them apart from the seriousness of other luxury brands. It’s camp, people!
Moschino also became known for interpreting classic styles of other houses, such as the Louis Vuitton monogram and Burberry cheques, giving them a personal twist to subvert the designs in some way.
Moschino's collaborations with various brands and artists, including H&M and The Sims, among others, have been instrumental in amplifying the brand's visibility and expanding its reach.
Moschino makes the perfect loud creations to stand out on the red carpet, so it’s no surprise that countless A-listers wear the brand for high-profile events such as the Met Gala.
Celebrities such as Cardi B, Meghan Thee Stallion, Bella Hadid, and Khloe Kardashian have all been spotted in Jeremy Scott designs.
The Faces Behind the Brand
Initially, Moschino was evenly split between ownership by Franco Moschino and luxury goods group Ditta Aeffe. However, in 2021, Aeffe acquired full ownership of the brand.
Since Franco Moschino's passing in 1994, the brand has seen creative leadership transitions. Rossella Jardini and later Jeremy Scott played pivotal roles in preserving Moschino's playful and irreverent ethos.
Following Scott's departure, Italian fashion designer Davide Renne was appointed but tragically passed away just 10 days into his tenure. Recently, Adrian Appiolaza has been appointed as the new creative director, bringing with him extensive experience gained from his roles at Loewe, under Marc Jacobs, and with Miuccia Prada.
Care and Sizing Tips
On Moschino’s website, each product has fit specifications (e.g., oversize, skinny, regular fit), so we recommend checking those to help you select the right size. Additionally, the website provides the model's measurements, giving you a better idea of how the item will fit.
Moschino uses Italian sizing but offers conversion charts to make things easier.
Keep in mind that their products vary widely, so always refer to the garment label for specific washing instructions tailored to each item.
Real or Fake?
Signs of counterfeit Moschino items include cheap stitching, low prices, and in the worst cases even misspelled logos. Researching the item thoroughly or purchasing from reputable platforms helps ensure authenticity.
From its inception as a disruptor of fashion norms to its current position as one of the big fashion houses, Moschino isn’t for everyone. Love it or hate it, Moschino has refused to be ignored, and there is an iconic archive to show for it.
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