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Brand Focus: Kenzo
Kenzo has been an established fashion house since the '70s, almost as long as other giants like Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent.
It’s a familiar face that brings to mind playful pattern combinations of stripes and florals, but for a moment it had started falling behind and being overshadowed by other big brands.
That all changed when Nigo stepped into the role of artistic director, injecting new life into the heritage brand.
A Bit of History
Kenzo Takada, born in Japan, studied at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. His fashion journey led him to Paris where in 1970 he opened his first boutique "Jungle Jap," in Galerie Vivienne, later renaming it to "Kenzo."
He started with just 200 dollars’ worth of fabric for his initial collection, which drew inspiration from his Japanese heritage and a blend of different cultures.
He soon had clientele like Bianca Jagger and Princess Caroline of Monaco in his repertoire. In 1983, Kenzo expanded into menswear.
The man himself was creative director of the brand until his departure in 1999. It's safe to say that’s when things started going downhill—by 2011, Kenzo barely broke even.
Carole Lim and Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony were appointed co-creative directors and helped the brand find some resurgence, making it appeal to a younger customer.
The real turning point, however, came in 2021 when Nigo entered the conversation.
Best known as the founder of the Japanese streetwear brand A Bathing Ape, Nigo is also co-owner and head designer of Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream.
As the new artistic director, he was able to relate to the cultural essence of the brand as well as bring in his high-profile connections. Nigo's first runway show attracted A-listers like Kanye West, Tyler the Creator, and Pharrell Williams.
He has maintained the brand spirit of celebrating nature and cultural diversity while rejuvenating and aligning the brand look to contemporary tastes. With more streetwear focused collections and collaborations with trending brands, Kenzo is looking good.
The Luxury Touch
In 1993 Kenzo joined the LVMH family, but Kenzo Takada stayed on as creative director until 1999.
Why the price tag? Like all luxury brands, Kenzo invests in high-quality materials and craftsmanship. Its association with celebrities and collaborations with big brands further inflate the popularity of the brand and justify the luxury price point.
What is the Brand Known For?
Kenzo carved its niche by blending cultural influences and focusing on vibrant colours and unique patterns. As a brand with roots in Paris and Tokyo, we often see cross-cultural creativity through Asian influenced style mixed with the construction of European fashion.
For example, the last FW24 collection saw NIGO masterfully weave a traditional tatami mat print into overcoats, alongside his interpretation of the karakusa pattern, a popular motif in Asian packaging fabrics.
The brand's designs draw inspiration from nature, Japanese art and traditions, resulting in creations with a distinctive character. As the original name of the brand gives away, Kenzo is keen on jungle prints, and the tiger has become an iconic logo as well as the poppy flower.
The brand has some impressive fans, having been worn by global stars like Rihanna, Beyonce, Michelle Obama, Jay Z, and the legendary Grace Jones.
Kenzo's influence and reach has grown through partnerships with H&M, Vans, Levis, Asics, and the recent collaboration with Verdy, solidifying its status as a trailblazer in the fashion world.
Sizing and Care Tips
Kenzo sizing is mostly true to whatever your usual size is. For some of the label's streetwear, tailoring is for an oversized look, so make sure to take this into account when ordering and consider a smaller size if you'd prefer a more fitted feel. EU measurements are used for shoes: if in doubt go up a size.
Caring for each item is different, so it’s best to refer to the wash tags—they will say all the individual needs for each item.
How to Spot Fakes
Like with all A-list brands, there are going to be fakes, particularly for the most popular items. With Kenzo, that is the iconic Tiger sweater.
On any purchase, always follow the general rule of thumb: high-end clothing is well-made, so check the overall quality of the piece. Details like stitching, seams, and lettering should be neat and consistent, not sloppy.
With bold pieces like the tiger sweater, make sure the colours are vibrant. They shouldn’t look washed out or dull in a brand-new item. You can use the official pictures to compare.
Check the wash tags, neck tag, and frontal printing for inconsistencies. Genuine Kenzo items have a paper tag attached with a lace and toggle that says 'Paris.' The wash tags should be detailed and often have stickers with quality control information.
As Kenzo evolves under Nigo's creative direction, the hope is that the brand continues to look forward and stay fresh while preserving its founder's loud and colourful spirit. It's something we need more of these days!
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