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Brand Focus: Carhartt WIP
Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP), born as the fashion-forward sub-label of the iconic American workwear brand Carhartt, has grown just as popular as its older brother.
A favourite in the streetwear scene, Carhartt WIP is known for its reliable workwear-inspired clothing that combines the brand’s rugged roots with modern casual style.
Brand History
Carhartt WIP was launched in 1994 by Edwin Faeh, carving its niche as the exclusive distributor of Carhartt in Europe.
The brand's parent company, Carhartt, was founded in 1889 by Hamilton Carhartt in Detroit, Michigan. He began by creating durable overalls for railway workers, utilizing duck and denim fabrics.
His designs quickly expanded to cater to various manual labor occupations, cementing Carhartt’s reputation for robust workwear.
Given the popularity of the main brand even among non-workers, Carhartt WIP emerged as a more fashion-oriented label.
The first Carhartt WIP store opened on Neal Street in London in 1997. Today, Carhartt WIP operates over 80 brick-and-mortar locations worldwide.
Despite being a European-based label, Carhartt WIP eventually expanded overseas, opening stores in the United States and globally, blending its American heritage with European street style for an internationally sought-after aesthetic.
Carhartt WIP has become a symbol of urban culture, not just for its clothing but also by actively supporting art, music, and skateboarding communities through events and partnerships. The brand even features its own radio show and magazine.
What is The Brand Known For?
Heritage and Adaptation
Carhartt is synonymous with durable workwear, and Carhartt WIP continues this legacy by developing collections inspired by the original designs. However, the key difference lies in their adaptation for an urban, streetwear-oriented market, bridging the line between workwear and sportswear.
Carhartt has been embraced by diverse subcultures, spanning from NYC's hip-hop scene and Detroit's techno culture in the '90s, to London's graffiti artists and skaters. Its durable qualities and utilitarian aesthetic made it perfect for the youth and their chilly hangouts in these northern cities.
The thick cotton canvas and wide-shaped pants, for example, are particularly popular among skaters who require wearable and scab-proof pieces.
Carhartt WIP allows the brand to celebrate its involvement in the subcultural fashion scene and build on the the popularity of workwear in fashion, catering to younger and more fashion-conscious audiences.
Carhartt WIP strikes a balance between loyalty to its roots and experimenting with new ideas, making it a favorite among fashion hipsters and streetwear collectors.
Signature Pieces
Carhartt WIP's most popular items include their beanies, Michigan Coat, Detroit Jacket, Active Jacket, Santa Fe Bomber, and single and double knee work pants.
Many iconic pieces remain unchanged, like the Chore jacket from 1917, which Carhartt WIP has integrated into its collections.
These pieces are celebrated for their hard-wearing, long-lasting qualities, staying true to the brand’s workwear origins.
Collaborations and Popularity
Carhartt WIP is renowned for its numerous collaborations, including those with Berlin nightclub Tresor, and fashion brands Awake NY, Converse, Marni, BAPE, Brain Dead, and Nike.
The brand has even ventured into high fashion through collaborations with designers like Junya Watanabe and Sacai, highlighting the appeal of workwear in high fashion.
Celebrities such as A$AP Rocky, Austin Butler, Brooklyn Beckham, and Ben Affleck have been spotted wearing Carhartt WIP.
At this point, Carhartt WIP has become a staple in the fashion industry, comparable to Levi’s popularity for jeans or Dr. Martens' for leather shoes.
Who Owns the Brand?
Carhartt, the parent company of Carhartt WIP, remains privately held by the Carhartt family. This private ownership allows Carhartt to maintain its authenticity and commitment to the original mission.
Tim Kottmann serves as the senior art director, taking a leading role in the brand's creative direction.
Spotting Fakes
While Carhartt WIP is rarely counterfeited compared to brands like Nike or Supreme, fake products are still in circulation. We recommend buying from legitimate retailers, but here are some telltale signs for spotting fakes.
To authenticate a piece, inspect the brand and care labels for any misspellings. The "WORK IN PROGRESS" lettering should have even width and spacing, appearing wide rather than thin and narrow.
The brand label should be stitched on all four sides or along the top, but not solely on the two lateral sides.
Moreover, all metallic buttons should bear Carhartt embossing, and the care label should be accurate, matching the product type (e.g., a sweatshirt should not be mislabeled as a jacket).
Care and Sizing Tips
For optimal longevity, refer to the care label on your Carhartt WIP garment. Here’s a general guide, however:
T-shirts: Wash cold, do not bleach, and tumble dry on a medium setting. Remove promptly and fold to avoid creases.
Jackets and Coats: Wash warm (30 or 40°C is ideal), do not bleach, and tumble dry medium. Remove promptly.
Canvas Shorts and Pants: Wash cold, do not bleach, and tumble dry medium. Remove promptly and fold.
For detailed care instructions, visit Carhartt's product care page.
Carhartt WIP successfully marries the ruggedness of its workwear heritage with contemporary streetwear style, making it a beloved brand across various cultures and communities.
Whether you're a skater, handyman, hipster, or just need casual essentials, Carhartt WIP offers durable clothes and style.
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